He is still able to do it. Denis Urubko informed that he reached the summit of the 8,051-meter-high Broad Peak in the Karakoram today. In February 2020 – after a failed winter attempt on the same mountain – Denis had still declared his eight-thousander career over with the words “(It) Is Enough!”. By his own account, he had summited eight-thousanders 22 times by then, always without bottled oxygen, sometimes on new routes, in winter or solo.
In 15 hours to the summit
His retreat from the 14 highest mountains in the world did not last long. Last February, in an interview with ExplorersWeb the 48-year-old formulated his goals for the next two to three years this way: “To beat the record of (the Spaniard) Juanito Oiarzabal, with 26 ascents over 8,000m, to open a new route up an 8,000er in alpine style with one woman as a partner (which would be a first), and to complete a winter climb on an 8,000er.”
Also permit for K2
According to reports from Pakistan, Urubko – as usual without bottled oxygen – climbed alone from base camp to the summit in less than 15 hours and returned safely to Camp 3 at about 7,100 meters. For the climber, born in the Russian North Caucasus, it was the third summit success on Broad Peak after 2003 and 2005 (via a new route on the Southwest Face). Urubko also has a climbing permit for this summer for the neighboring 8,611-meter-high K2. Denis had scaled the second highest mountain in the world in 2007 via the rarely used Northwest Ridge.
According to media reports, the Pole Rafal Fronia also climbed Broad Peak without oxygen – and without a companion.