She does not fit into the clichés that many people in the West have of Arab
women. Fatima, called Tima,
Deryan does not stand in the shadow of a man. She is
cosmopolitan, self-confident and independent. She has founded a company in
Dubai where she lives – and she is a mountaineer: Tima has already scaled five
of the “Seven Summits”, the highest mountains of all continents. Mount Everest
and Mount Vinson in the Antarctica are still missing from her collection.
On 23 March, the 26-year-old will fly to Nepal to climb the highest
mountain on earth. On the trek to Everest Base Camp, Tima will certainly pay
special attention to the yaks. In October 2017 on her way to Island Peak, she was attacked by a yak when she had just crossed a bridge over the
Dudh Kosi between Phakding and Namche Bazaar. She was flipped over by the yak.
The horns hit her at the thigh, Deryan was slightly injured.
Bad weather forces the climbers of the winter expeditions on the
eight-thousanders K2 and Nanga Parbat in Pakistan and on Manaslu in Nepal to
inactivity. The team from Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan led by Vassiliy
Pivtsov returned to K2 Base Camp yesterday after the seven climbers, according
to their own words, had fixed ropes on the classical Abruzzi route up
to an altitude of 6,300 meters. The
Spaniard Alex Txikon’s team has not yet ascended, but built in the base camp three igloos, in
which a total of ten to 14 people can sleep. Alex was thrilled after his first
Mount Everest has long been
an event venue. Thus in 2009, the Nepalese government moved a cabinet meeting to the base camp at the foot of
Mount Everest to attract media attention. Also there the British DJ Paul Oakenfold
gave a benefit concert in 2017. Last year a British star chef organized the “world’s
highest dinner party”
on the Tibetan north side of Everest: exclusive dining on the North Col at
about 7,000 meters, with a white tablecloth, candlestick and champagne. And it
goes on. Next spring, Everest will probably host the highest rugby match of all time.
US President Donald Trump
has also slowed down Jost Kobusch with his shutdown of the federal administration. The
German climber was suddenly standing in front of a locked door in Talkeetna in
Alaska. Jost read on a sign behind the glass pane that the rangers’ office was
closed “due to the lapse in funding of the federal government budget”. The
Denali National Park administration sent an email to the 26-year-old informing
him that he would probably not receive any more news due to the shutdown for
the time being. “Just watch the news,” he was recommended.
While the winter expedition teams at the eight-thousanders K2 and Manaslu
have only just moved into their base camps, the Italian Daniele Nardi and his three companions on Nanga Parbat are in a more advanced phase.
Today Daniele, the Brit Tom Ballard and the two Pakistani mountaineers Rahmat
Ullah Baig and Karim Hayat ascended
again to Camp 3 at 5,700 meters, directly below the Mummery Rib. Five days ago,
the four climbers had deposited a tent there and then returned to base camp.
Mount Everest took their husbands. And the fathers of their children.
Nevertheless, Nima Doma Sherpa and Furdiki Sherpa want to climb the highest mountain on earth this spring. “We are doing our
expedition for the respect of our late husbands because they were mountaineers
too,” Nima Doma replies to my question about the purpose of their project. “And
we want to motivate all the widows.” Everest has left a lot of single mothers
behind. According to the mountaineering chronicle “Himalayan
Database”, 37 Sherpas have died there in the past 20
years alone. Furdiki’s husband, Mingma Sherpa, belonged to the so-called
“Icefall Doctors” who set up and secure the route through the Khumbu Icefall
every year. The 44-year-old died in a fall into a crevasse on 7 April 2013. One
year later, on 18 April 2014, Nima Doma Sherpa’s husband, Tshering Wangchu
Sherpa, was one of the 16 Nepalese victims of the major avalanche
accident in the Icefall.
Several winter expeditions in the Himalayas and Karakoram started in the first days of the year. Two of the three climbers who had succeeded the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in 2016 met in Lhukla in Nepal, however now with different goals: The Spaniard Alex Txikon wants to tackle K2 in Pakistan, the last remaining eight-thousander to be climbed for the first time in the cold season, the Italian Simone Moro is drawn to Manaslu again. The 51-year-old and the South Tyrolean Tamara Lunger had failed on the 8167-meter-high mountain in western Nepal in 2015 because of the enormous snow masses of that winter. This year, according to the Kathmandu-based newspaper “The Himalayan Times”, Moro plans to climb with the Nepalese Pemba Gyalje Sherpa on the normal route without bottled oxygen. In order to acclimatize, they wanted to climb the 6,476-meter-high Mera Peak in the Khumbu region. Continue reading “Winter expeditions are on”