Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa: Second of four planned Everest summit successes

Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa on the summit of Everest (on 9 May)

Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa on the summit of Everest (on 9 May)

The summit wave on Mount Everest is rolling. Several dozen climbers from commercial expedition teams reached the highest point on earth at 8,849 meters today. Among those standing on the summit was Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa, according to Pemba Sherpa, owner of the Nepalese expedition operator 8K Expeditions. It was Tashi’s second summit success this spring. The Sherpa had already been part of 8K Expeditions’ seven-man rope-fixing team, which had made the first Everest ascent of the season on 9 May.

Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa has set himself the goal of scaling the highest peak on earth four times this spring (with bottled oxygen). Last year, Dawa Finjhok Sherpa, Climbing Sherpa of the operator Seven Summit Treks, summited Everest three times in eight days. Nepalese journalist Purnima Shrestha also reached the summit three times during the season as a client of a commercial team – with breathing mask and Sherpa support.

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First summit success of the spring on Mount Everest

Mount Everest (before sunrise, seen from Gokyo Ri)
Mount Everest (before sunrise, seen from Gokyo Ri)

The job is done. Today at around 5 p.m. local time, the seven-member fixed rope team of the operator 8K Expeditions reached the summit of Mount Everest at 8,849 meters. Tsering Pemba Sherpa, Ashok Lama, Pem Nurbu Sherpa, Tashi Sherpa, Karma Gyaljen Sherpa, Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa and Pas Tenzi Sherpa secured the route to the highest point with ropes, the company announced. The route is now officially open on Everest.

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Rope-fixing team on Lhotse summit – rescue from Everest South Summit

Sunrise over Mount Everest and Lhotse (r.) in fall 2019
Sunrise over Mount Everest and Lhotse (r.) – in fall 2019

The first summit success of the spring season on Lhotse, the fourth highest peak in the world, is perfect. “Lhotse summit route is officially open,” announced Nepalese operator 8K Expeditions in its Instagram story. The five-member rope-fixing team – consisting of Pasang Tenje Sherpa, Migma Dorjee Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa, Ming Dawa Sherpa and Pas Rinzi Sherpa – reached the highest point at 8,516 meters today at 5.40 pm, the company announced.

For this season, 8K Expeditions had been commissioned to secure the normal routes on Mount Everest and the neighboring Lhotse from Camp 2 (6,400 m) in the Western Cwm, the “Valley of Silence”, to the summits with ropes for all commercial teams. The Icefall Doctors are responsible for the route from base camp through the Khumbu Icefall up to Camp 2.

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Waiting for the first summit success of the spring season on Mount Everest

View of Mount Everest (l.) and Lhotse (from Namche)
View of Mount Everest (l.) and Lhotse (in fall 2019)

It’s like an annual ritual. It is eagerly awaited how early in the spring season the rope-fixing teams reach the highest point of Mount Everest at 8,849 meters. A few days later, the commercial teams usually begin their run to the summit – always with the proviso that the weather cooperates.

So far this spring, the conditions on the highest mountain on earth have been rather difficult. But from this Saturday onwards, the weather is expected to be comparatively calm for the summit zone of Everest, with hardly any precipitation and relatively little wind.

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