Mount Everest and the law of large numbers

View of Mount Everest (l.) and Lhotse (from Namche)
View of Mount Everest (l.) and Lhotse (from Namche in fall 2019)

In probability theory, there is the law of large numbers. For example, if I throw the dice 10,000 times, I come closer to the probability of throwing a six every sixth attempt than if I only try 100 times.

There is also a law of large numbers in mountaineering: the more often I climb high peaks, the more likely I am to be noticed. On Mount Everest, where the season is coming to an end as the monsoon approaches, the personal records have been tumbling these days.

29th summit success for Pa Dawa Sherpa

Pasang Dawa Sherpa
Pasang Dawa Sherpa

Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa) Sherpa reached the highest point on earth at 8,849 meters for the 28th time on 15 May and for the 29th time on 20 May. Only Kami Rita Sherpa has more Everest ascents to his name with 30 summit successes.

Pema Chhiring Sherpa stood on the roof of the world for the 24th time this spring. The Briton Kenton Cool for the 19th time; Tendi Sherpa for the 18th time; the US-American Garrett Madison for the 15th time.

Gyalu Sherpa summits Kangchenjunga three times

Gyalu Sherpa
Gyalu Sherpa

Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa reached the summit of Everest – as reported previously – four times this season, more often than anyone before in one year. At this point, it should also be mentioned that Gyalu Sherpa stood on the 8,586-meter-high summit of Kangchenjunga three times this spring. Without high-performing Sherpas – such as those mentioned here by way of example – only a fraction of the summit successes on Nepal’s eight-thousanders would be possible.

This also applies to Lakpa “Makalu” Sherpa. First he led the rope-fixing teams to the summits of Makalu and Dhaulagiri, then he led a successful expedition of Seven Summit Treks on Kangchenjunga – without climbing the third highest peak on earth himself. Hats off to these strong mountaineers from Nepal!

P.S.: The so-called “Race on Everest” between the speed climbers Karl Egloff – who has a Swiss and an Ecuadorian passport – and the US-American Tyler Andrews, which was hyped by many media, failed due to the weather.

Egloff, who set off without oxygen, turned back at Camp 3 at around 7,300 meters, Andrews above the South Col. Due to the stormy weather, Tyler had already decided before his start at base camp to use a breathing mask in the upper part of the mountain.

Update 27 May: Lakpa “Makalu” Sherpa also summited Kangchenjunga today. And Kami Rita Sherpa recorded his 31st Everest summit success!

Sirbaz Khan – the first Pakistani to climb all eight-thousanders without bottled oxygen

Sirbaz Khan (on an earlier summit success)
Sirbaz Khan (on an earlier summit success)

“I am delighted for Sirbaz that he has now also completed the 14 eight-thousanders ‘topless’,” writes Ralf Dujmovits, Germany’s most successful high-altitude mountaineer. “My heartfelt congratulations to him.”

Sirbaz Khan has fulfilled his self-proclaimed “Mission 14”: On Sunday at 11.50 a.m. Nepalese time, the 37-year-old reached the summit of Kangchenjunga at 8,586 meters with the team from expedition operator Imagine Nepal. Sirbaz also scaled the third highest mountain on earth without a breathing mask. This makes him the first Pakistani to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without bottled oxygen.

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More summit successes on Mount Everest – death and rescue operation on Kangchenjunga

Sunrise on Mount Everest
Sunrise on Mount Everest (in fall 2019)

Fierce gusts of wind have caused a forced respite on Mount Everest and the other eight-thousanders in Nepal. This gives me the opportunity to summarise the events of the past three days.

After the rope-fixing team from the Nepalese expedition operator 8K Expeditions – as reported – achieved the first summit success of the spring on Mount Everest last Friday, around a dozen other mountaineers followed in their footsteps on Sunday – with bottled oxygen and Sherpa support – to reach the highest point on earth at 8,849 meters.

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Summit success on Dhaulagiri: Eight-thousander number twelve for Anja Blacha

Dhaulagiri
The 8,167-meter-high Dhaulagiri in western Nepal

She has done it again. Today, Anja Blacha – along with the rope-fixing team of the Nepalese expedition operator Seven Summit Treks (SST) led by Lakpa “Makalu” Sherpa – reached the 8,167-meter-high summit of Dhaulagiri in western Nepal.

According to SST, the 34-year-old German mountaineer was one of a total of 13 people to achieve the first summit success this spring on the seventh highest mountain on earth. Anja once again did without bottled oxygen during the ascent – as did Pakistani Sajid Ali Sadpara and Taiwanese Lu Chung-Han.

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Farewell on Putha Hiunchuli: Alix von Melle scatters the ashes of her husband Luis Stitzinger

At the summit of Putha Hiunchuli, Alix von Melle leaves Luis' ashes to the wind
At the summit of Putha Hiunchuli, Alix von Melle leaves Luis’ ashes to the wind

I often think about Luis Stitzinger these days. Now that his widow Alix von Melle has spread his ashes on the 7,246-meter-high Putha Hiunchuli in western Nepal. The same place where I first attempted a seven-thousander in 2011 – in vain, I had to turn back at 7,150 meters. Alix’s expedition leader on Putha Hiunchuli was now the Austrian Herbert Wolf – as he was for me 13 years ago.

And with Eva-Maria Ramsebner, from Austria too, there was also someone en route from the team with whom I was able to celebrate the first ascent of the 7,129-meter-high Kokodak Dome in western China in 2014. Expedition leader at the time: Luis Stitzinger. So many interfaces – no wonder I remember him so often these days.

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Anja Blacha after Kangchenjunga success: “Never had such heavy legs on the descent”

Anja Blacha
Anja Blacha

Now no other woman from Germany has stood on eight-thousanders more often than Anja Blacha. The mountaineer, who celebrates her 34th birthday on 18 June, achieved a last-minute summit success on the 8,586-meter-high Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world, at the end of the spring season on the eight-thousanders in Nepal. She had already scaled the 8,485-meter-high Makalu, the fifth-highest of all mountains, on 12 May. On both mountains, Anja climbed on the normal routes, with teams from the commercial expedition operator Seven Summit Treks (SST) and did without bottled oxygen herself.

These were her seventh and eighth eight-thousanders after Mount Everest (in 2017 and 2021), Broad Peak, K2 (both in 2019), Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I and II (these three in 2023). Only on Everest did she use a breathing mask on her ascents. This means that the German mountaineer now has one more eight-thousander summit success to her name than Alix von Melle, who has summited seven eight-thousanders to date. Anja Blacha answered my questions after her return from Kangchenjunga.

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