The first summit successes of the spring season on the highest mountain on earth have apparently the Tibetan north side of Mount Everest. Mingma Sherpa, head of the commercial Nepalese expedition operator Climbalaya with good connections to China, reports that last Friday a team from the Chinese operator Yarla Shampo Expeditions fixed the ropes to the summit at 8,849 meters.
On Saturday, a commercial team of 20 Tibetan climbers and eleven paying clients ascended to the summit (almost certainly with bottled oxygen, if it were not, it would have been announced). Another team is aiming for tomorrow (Wednesday, May 4) as summit day, Mingma informed.
And again it will probably be a difficult spring season in the mountains of Nepal. In 2020 nothing went at all because of the COVID-19 pandemic. In 2021, a wave of infections also hit the base camps on Mount Everest and Dhaulagiri – the fact that the Nepalese government has not admitted this to this day is and remains a scandal. And now in spring 2022, the Russian war in Ukraine is causing uncertainty worldwide – certainly also among mountaineers.
The first eight-thousander summit success of the fall season is reported from Tibet. Twelve clients and eleven climbers working for the operator Tibet Himalayan Expeditions reached the summit of Cho Oyu today, confirms Mingma Sherpa. The head of the Nepalese operator Climbalaya has good contacts to China. The Chinese expedition team had set off for Cho Oyu on 14 September.
Mount Everest took their husbands. And the fathers of their children.
Nevertheless, Nima Doma Sherpa and Furdiki Sherpa want to climb the highest mountain on earth this spring. “We are doing our
expedition for the respect of our late husbands because they were mountaineers
too,” Nima Doma replies to my question about the purpose of their project. “And
we want to motivate all the widows.” Everest has left a lot of single mothers
behind. According to the mountaineering chronicle “Himalayan
Database”, 37 Sherpas have died there in the past 20
years alone. Furdiki’s husband, Mingma Sherpa, belonged to the so-called
“Icefall Doctors” who set up and secure the route through the Khumbu Icefall
every year. The 44-year-old died in a fall into a crevasse on 7 April 2013. One
year later, on 18 April 2014, Nima Doma Sherpa’s husband, Tshering Wangchu
Sherpa, was one of the 16 Nepalese victims of the major avalanche
accident in the Icefall.