Alpinistic highlight by James Price and George Ponsonby in the Karakoram: “Each pitch a question mark”

James Price (left) and George Ponsonby (right) on the summit of Aikache Chhok
James Price (l.) and George Ponsonby (r.) on the summit of Aikache Chhok

The members of the “Young Alpinist Group” from Great Britain and Ireland are actually only supposed to gain initial experience in the world’s great mountains. However, two of them have now achieved a real mountaineering coup in northern Pakistan.

At the end of October, Briton James Price and Irishman George Ponsonby opened a difficult 3,000-meter route in alpine style on the 6,673-meter-high Aikache Chhok via the previously unclimbed Northwest Ridge and then descended via the also virgin Southwest Face.

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Russian team opens new route on eight-thousander Manaslu

Manaslu (l.) and Pinnacle East (r.) in spring 2007
Manaslu (left – in 2007)

Classic alpinism is alive and well! For me, this is evident in the fact that I can hardly keep up with reporting on all the extraordinary climbs this fall season in Nepal.

Like this one: According to Anna Piunova from the Russian mountaineering portal mountain.ru, Andrey Vasilyev, Sergey Kondrashkin, Natalia Belyankina, Kirill Eyserman, and Vitaly Shipilov reached the summit of the 8,163-meter-high Manaslu in western Nepal yesterday, Wednesday, at around 1 p.m. local time.

The Russian team opened a “new alpine-style route on the immense, uncharted Southwest Face,” Anna wrote on Facebook. Andrey sent her a short message from the highest point: “(We) Made the summit, just got back to the tent. It was brutal. The wind up there was insane.”

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Berg, Barmasse, and Bielecki – New route on the nearly-7000er Numbur in Nepal

Hervé Barmasse, Felix Berg, and Adam Bieleki (from right to left) at the summit of Numbur
Hervé Barmasse, Felix Berg, and Adam Bieleki (from right to left) at the summit of Numbur

Once again, there has been a great achievement of true alpinism in the Himalayas in Nepal: by “the three Bs.”

Felix Berg from Germany, Hervé Barmasse from Italy, and Adam Bielecki from Poland opened a new route through the approximately 1,000-meter-high South Face of the rarely climbed 6,958-meter-high Numbur in the Rolwaling Valley, not far from Mount Everest – and they did it alpine style: without bottled oxygen, without fixed ropes, without fixed high camps, and without Sherpa support.

“For me personally, it was nice to be able to do some alpine climbing again after recently being busy leading and guiding (commercial) tours,” says Felix Berg, managing director of expedition operatur SummitClimb. “I have to say, it’s one of my highlight tours in Nepal.”

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Pakistani climbers open new route on the seven-thousander Tirich Mir in the Hindu Kush

Team led by Abdul Joshi (2nd from l.) on the summit of Tirich Mir
Team led by Abdul Joshi (2nd from l.) on the summit of Tirich Mir

Long gone are the days when Pakistani mountaineers did nothing but haul equipment up mountains for foreign expeditions. They now rightly claim to be recognized and respected as mountaineers with their own sporting ambitions. This applies, for example, to Abdul Joshi.

The 40-year-old led a five-member Pakistani team that reached the summit of the 7,708-meter-high Tirich Mir on 1 August – opening “a brand new route overcoming highly technical terrain, deep crevasses, and dangerous ice-rock transitions,” as the expedition report states. The route leads through the southern flank of the mountain.

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Alexander Huber, Dani Arnold and Simon Gietl: New route on the 6,000er Jirishanca in Peru

Dani Arnold, Alexander Huber, and Simon Gietl (from left to right)
Dani Arnold, Alexander Huber, and Simon Gietl (from left to right)

While the mountaineering community has recently been focusing its attention on the high mountains of Pakistan, three top European climbers have achieved an alpinistic masterpiece in the Peruvian Andes.

Alexander Huber (54, the younger of the two Huber brothers) from Germany, Dani Arnold (41) from Switzerland, and Simon Gietl (40) from South Tyrol opened a new route on the 6,094-meter-high Jirishanca. Their line runs 1,030 meters up the challenging East Face and ends at the East Summit at 6,028 meters.

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Denis Urubko and Maria Cardell report: New route on Nanga Parbat

The Diamir sde fo Nanga Parbat
The Diamir side of Nanga Parbat

“On 10 July at 11:30 a.m. local time, we stood on the summit of Nanga Parbat after climbing it via a new route in alpine style,” Denis Urubko wrote yesterday to the Russian mountaineering portal mountain.ru. “Maria and I are happy.”

Urubko and his Spanish wife Maria “Pipi” Cardell had already travelled to Pakistan at the beginning of June to acclimatize for their project on the 8,125-meter-high Nanga Parbat. Their goal: a new route through the Diamir Face, the western flank of the ninth highest mountain on earth. In alpine style, i.e. without bottled oxygen, without fixed ropes, without fixed high camps and without high altitude porters.

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Rousseau, Marvell and Cornell pull off a coup on the 7000er Jannu

Matt Cornell, Alan Rousseau and Jackson Marvell on the summit of Jannu
Matt Cornell, Alan Rousseau and Jackson Marvell (from l. to r.) on the summit of Jannu.

It’s projects like this that show that alpinism is far from dead – even if the crisis of meaning in eight-thousander mountaineering sometimes makes it seem that way. The U.S. Americans Alan Rousseau, Jackson Marvell and Matt Cornell opened a new route on the 7,710-meter-high Jannu in eastern Nepal through the extremely steep, demanding and therefore rarely climbed North Face. It was the first time the 2,700-meter-high so-called “Wall of Shadows” had been mastered in alpine style – that is, without bottled oxygen, fixed high camps, fixed ropes or Sherpa support.

“So for three years I’ve been trying to climb the North Face of Jannu in alpine style with Matt and Jackson,” Alan Rousseau writes on Instagram. “We finally got it done! In a 7 day push BC (Base Camp) to BC.” The three climbers christened their route “Round trip ticket”.

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