Carlos Soria scales Manaslu at the age of 86 – Tyler Andrews abandons his next Everest speed attempt

Carlos Soria
Carlos Soria

This mountain Methuselah is simply incredible. Carlos Soria reached the summit of the 8,163-meter-high Manaslu in western Nepal today – at the age of 86, no less.

This means that the Spaniard is now listed in the record books as the oldest person ever to stand on an eight-thousander. He replaces Japanese climber Yuichiro Miura, who climbed Mount Everest in 2013 at the age of 80 – for the third time in his life.

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Tyler Andrews abandons Everest speed attempt

Mount Everest (before sunrise, seen from Gokyo Ri)
Mount Everest (before sunrise, seen from Gokyo Ri)

The final stop was at around 7,400 meters. After almost ten hours of climbing, Tyler Andrews decided to abandon his speed attempt on Mount Everest and descend again. “Slower pace than planned, snow has gotten worse and harder to break through solo,” it said on his website.

The 35-year-old long-distance runner from the USA wants to climb Everest without bottled oxygen – and faster than anyone has ever done before. The current record for reaching the summit without a breathing mask from the Nepalese south side is 20 hours and 24 minutes, claimed in 1998 by Nepalese mountaineer Kaji Sherpa.

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Ski descent from Mount Everest – Third attempt by Pole Andrzej Bargiel

Ski mountaineer Andrzej Bargiel (2022 at Mount Everest)
Ski mountaineer Andrzej Bargiel (2022 at Mount Everest)

“I’m drawn to Everest,” said Andrzej Bargiel in an interview with his sponsor Red Bull. “Partly out of curiosity, I want to see how my body copes at such altitude. And also because, although this place doesn’t have the best PR, there are moments, like autumn, when it’s peaceful and you can work there independently – without all the commotion.”

The 37-year-old Polish ski mountaineer set off for Nepal this week with eight companions to achieve his big goal on his third attempt: to climb the 8,849-meter summit of Mount Everest without bottled oxygen and ski down from there to base camp.

Bargiel abandoned his first attempt in fall 2019 because a monster serac around 50 meters high and 30 meters wide was hanging over the Khumbu Icefall and threatening to break off. His second attempt ended in fall 2022 at the South Col at just under 8,000 meters, where the wind was so strong that Andrzej and his companion Janusz Golab couldn’t even pitch their tent.

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Mount Everest and the law of large numbers

View of Mount Everest (l.) and Lhotse (from Namche)
View of Mount Everest (l.) and Lhotse (from Namche in fall 2019)

In probability theory, there is the law of large numbers. For example, if I throw the dice 10,000 times, I come closer to the probability of throwing a six every sixth attempt than if I only try 100 times.

There is also a law of large numbers in mountaineering: the more often I climb high peaks, the more likely I am to be noticed. On Mount Everest, where the season is coming to an end as the monsoon approaches, the personal records have been tumbling these days.

29th summit success for Pa Dawa Sherpa

Pasang Dawa Sherpa
Pasang Dawa Sherpa

Pasang Dawa (Pa Dawa) Sherpa reached the highest point on earth at 8,849 meters for the 28th time on 15 May and for the 29th time on 20 May. Only Kami Rita Sherpa has more Everest ascents to his name with 30 summit successes.

Pema Chhiring Sherpa stood on the roof of the world for the 24th time this spring. The Briton Kenton Cool for the 19th time; Tendi Sherpa for the 18th time; the US-American Garrett Madison for the 15th time.

Gyalu Sherpa summits Kangchenjunga three times

Gyalu Sherpa
Gyalu Sherpa

Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa reached the summit of Everest – as reported previously – four times this season, more often than anyone before in one year. At this point, it should also be mentioned that Gyalu Sherpa stood on the 8,586-meter-high summit of Kangchenjunga three times this spring. Without high-performing Sherpas – such as those mentioned here by way of example – only a fraction of the summit successes on Nepal’s eight-thousanders would be possible.

This also applies to Lakpa “Makalu” Sherpa. First he led the rope-fixing teams to the summits of Makalu and Dhaulagiri, then he led a successful expedition of Seven Summit Treks on Kangchenjunga – without climbing the third highest peak on earth himself. Hats off to these strong mountaineers from Nepal!

P.S.: The so-called “Race on Everest” between the speed climbers Karl Egloff – who has a Swiss and an Ecuadorian passport – and the US-American Tyler Andrews, which was hyped by many media, failed due to the weather.

Egloff, who set off without oxygen, turned back at Camp 3 at around 7,300 meters, Andrews above the South Col. Due to the stormy weather, Tyler had already decided before his start at base camp to use a breathing mask in the upper part of the mountain.

Update 27 May: Lakpa “Makalu” Sherpa also summited Kangchenjunga today. And Kami Rita Sherpa recorded his 31st Everest summit success!

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