Andrzej Bargiel successfully climbs Everest and skis down – without oxygen mask

Andrzej Bargiel raises his arm in greeting back at Everest Base Camp
Andrzej Bargiel back at Everest Base Camp

All good things come in threes, people say. On his third attempt, Andrzej Bargiel succeeded in scaling Mount Everest without bottled oxygen and skiing from the summit back down to base camp. “It’s one of the most important milestones in my sports career. Skiing down Everest without oxygen was a dream that had been growing inside me for years,” said the Pole.

He had abandoned his first attempt in fall 2019 because a monster serac around 50 meters high and 30 meters wide was hanging over the Khumbu Icefall and threatening to break off. His second attempt ended in fall 2022 at the South Col at almost 8,000 meters, where the wind was so strong that it was impossible to pitch a tent.

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Tyler Andrews abandons Everest speed attempt

Mount Everest (before sunrise, seen from Gokyo Ri)
Mount Everest (before sunrise, seen from Gokyo Ri)

The final stop was at around 7,400 meters. After almost ten hours of climbing, Tyler Andrews decided to abandon his speed attempt on Mount Everest and descend again. “Slower pace than planned, snow has gotten worse and harder to break through solo,” it said on his website.

The 35-year-old long-distance runner from the USA wants to climb Everest without bottled oxygen – and faster than anyone has ever done before. The current record for reaching the summit without a breathing mask from the Nepalese south side is 20 hours and 24 minutes, claimed in 1998 by Nepalese mountaineer Kaji Sherpa.

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Summit successes on Manaslu

Manaslu in the first dailight
Manaslu (in 2007)

The first reports of success from the 8,163-meter-high Manaslu are trickling in. On Sunday, the six-member Nepalese rope-fixing team – consisting of mountaineers Chhiring Bhote, Pasang Sherpa, Hira Bhote, Tashi Sherpa, Karma Sharki Sherpa, and Lakpa Sherpa – secured the normal route to the highest point and at the same time ensured the first summit successes of the fall season on Nepal’s eight-thousanders.

On Monday and Tuesday, the first commercial clients, accompanied by Nepalese mountaineers, also reached the summit of the eighth highest mountain on earth. Today, the Nepalese tour operator Seven Summit Treks alone reported that 17 clients and 17 Nepalese Climbing Sherpas had reached the top.

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Drama on Kyrgyzstan’s highest mountain – rescue operation called off

Jengish Chokusu, also known as Pik Pobeda
Jengish Chokusu, also known as Pik Pobeda

Translated, the 7,439-meter-high mountain on the border between Kyrgyzstan and China means “Victory Peak” in both Kyrgyz (Jengish Chokusu) and Russian (Pik Pobeda). But these days, there are no victors on Kyrgyzstan’s highest mountain.

On 11 August, Russian climbing legend Nikolai Totmyanin – winner of the Piolet d’Or award for the first ascent of the North Face of Jannu (7,710 m) in eastern Nepal in 2004, among other achievements – died at the age of 66 in the Kyrgyz capital Bishkek, after most likely suffering from high altitude sickness while descending from the summit of the seven-thousander. But that was only the beginning of the drama.

In the days that followed, two Iranian and one Italian climbers lost their lives on Pik Pobeda. It is highly doubtful whether a female Russian climber, who has been stranded on the summit ridge at around 7,200 meters with a broken leg for two weeks, is still alive. And even if she is, it will probably be of no use to her. According to Anna Piunova from the Russian mountaineering portal mountain.ru, the rescue operation was finally called off yesterday due to bad weather with snowfall and temperatures dropping to minus 30 degrees Celsius at night.

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Ski descent from Mount Everest – Third attempt by Pole Andrzej Bargiel

Ski mountaineer Andrzej Bargiel (2022 at Mount Everest)
Ski mountaineer Andrzej Bargiel (2022 at Mount Everest)

“I’m drawn to Everest,” said Andrzej Bargiel in an interview with his sponsor Red Bull. “Partly out of curiosity, I want to see how my body copes at such altitude. And also because, although this place doesn’t have the best PR, there are moments, like autumn, when it’s peaceful and you can work there independently – without all the commotion.”

The 37-year-old Polish ski mountaineer set off for Nepal this week with eight companions to achieve his big goal on his third attempt: to climb the 8,849-meter summit of Mount Everest without bottled oxygen and ski down from there to base camp.

Bargiel abandoned his first attempt in fall 2019 because a monster serac around 50 meters high and 30 meters wide was hanging over the Khumbu Icefall and threatening to break off. His second attempt ended in fall 2022 at the South Col at just under 8,000 meters, where the wind was so strong that Andrzej and his companion Janusz Golab couldn’t even pitch their tent.

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Pakistani climbers open new route on the seven-thousander Tirich Mir in the Hindu Kush

Team led by Abdul Joshi (2nd from l.) on the summit of Tirich Mir
Team led by Abdul Joshi (2nd from l.) on the summit of Tirich Mir

Long gone are the days when Pakistani mountaineers did nothing but haul equipment up mountains for foreign expeditions. They now rightly claim to be recognized and respected as mountaineers with their own sporting ambitions. This applies, for example, to Abdul Joshi.

The 40-year-old led a five-member Pakistani team that reached the summit of the 7,708-meter-high Tirich Mir on 1 August – opening “a brand new route overcoming highly technical terrain, deep crevasses, and dangerous ice-rock transitions,” as the expedition report states. The route leads through the southern flank of the mountain.

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45 years ago: Reinhold Messner’s solo ascent of Mount Everest

Everest North Face in the last daylight (in spring 2005)
Everest North Face in the last daylight (in spring 2005)

“In 1980 on Everest, I was more wiped out than ever before and not even after that,” Reinhold Messner told me five years ago when we talked about 20 August 1980—the day he stood alone on the summit of the highest mountain on earth.

“I had fantastic weather, was very well acclimatized and made very good progress in the lower part of the mountain. That made me feel cheerful and confident. A few hundred meters below the summit, however, the weather closed up. Fog crawled up from the south side, spilling down over the ridges and the summit to the north. I was suddenly afraid that I would lose orientation. Tiny snowflakes were drizzling.”

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K2: “Rocks whizzing in all directions”

K2
The 8,611-meter-high K2 in the Karakoram (in 2004)

“(I am) Grateful that I’m alive and ok,” Turkish mountaineer Gülnur Tumbat wrote on Instagram today. The professor of marketing, born in 1975, lives and works in San Francisco.

On Monday, she reached – with bottled oxygen – the summit of K2, the second-highest mountain on earth, as one of around 40 mountaineers from commercial expedition teams. Gülnur was the first Turkish woman to scale the 8,611-meter-high mountain in the Karakoram in Pakistan.

At that point, she probably had no idea how dangerous the final phase of her descent would be: from Camp 1 at around 6,000 meters down to the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at around 5,300 meters. As reported, a Chinese climber died in a rockfall during this passage on Tuesday. Gülnur reports that a rescuer who tried to recover the Chinese woman’s body was also hit.

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Chinese female climber dies in rockfall on K2

K2
The 8,611-meter-high K2 in the Karakoram (in summer 2004)

On Monday, expedition operator Imagine Nepal proudly announced that its entire team of 15 members had reached the summit of K2, the second-highest mountain on earth. Now, a death has cast a shadow over the success.

According to consistent reports from Pakistan, a Chinese female climber from the team was hit by falling rocks yesterday, Tuesday, and died. The accident occurred between Camp 1 (at around 6,000 meters) and the Advanced Base Camp (5,300 m), it said.

On Monday, around 40 climbers from several teams had stood on the summit of K2 at 8,611 meters.

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Summit successes reported from K2

K2 (in summer 2004)
The 8,611-meter-high K2 in the Karakoram (in 2004)

It took a long time, but now the moment has arrived. Today, the first more than two dozen summit successes of the summer season were reported from K2, the second highest mountain in the world, located in the Karakoram in Pakistan. The Nepalese expedition operator Imagine Nepal provided the largest group with 15 members at the summit.

The team was led by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, the head of the company. For him, it was his sixth K2 summit success. Mingma and Imagine Nepal had taken on the task of fixing the ropes to the highest point at 8,611 meters.

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Pakistan: When a body needs to be retrieved from the mountain

The six-thousander Laila Peak in the Karakoram
The six-thousander Laila Peak in the Karakoram

Following the tragic death of German mountaineer Laura Dahlmeier on the 6,096-meter-high Laila Peak in the Karakoram in Pakistan, many are asking themselves: Should the body of the deceased be recovered after all? Or should her last will be respected?

Laura had written in her will that her body should remain on the mountain if others had to risk their lives to recover it.

This was exactly the case immediately after Dahlmeier’s death: the rockfall that had claimed Laura’s life at around 5,700 meters continued and would have posed a potentially fatal danger to the members of a recovery team.

And if conditions on the mountain improve? Even then, it would remain a dangerous undertaking, Dan Stretch of the US organization Global Rescue informs me.

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Mourning for German mountaineer Laura Dahlmeier

Laura Dahlmeier while rock climbing
Laura Dahlmeier (1993-2025)

It is always difficult to face such a definitive truth as the death of a person. But it does not help to close one’s eyes to it. According to human judgment, German mountaineer Laura Dahlmeier cannot have survived Monday’s mountain accident on the 6,096-meter-high Laila Peak in the Karakoram.

Two days later, the 31-year-old was declared dead and the rescue operation on the extremely steep and dangerous mountain was called off.

“Recovering the body is too risky and not feasible for the rescue team under the current difficult conditions with rockfalls and a change in weather on Laila Peak,” Laura Dahlmeier’s management informed. In the meantime, further details of the accident have also become known.

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Breaking news: Laura Dahlmeier is dead

Butterlampen_Gebetsmuehlen
R.I.P.

What was feared has now sadly become a certainty. German mountaineer Laura Dahlmeier did not survive her accident on the 6,000-meter Laila Peak. This was announced by her management. The former Olympic biathlon champion and world champion was 31 years old.

She was struck by falling rocks on Monday on the mountain in the Karakoram in Pakistan at an altitude of 5,700 meters. Her rope partner was unharmed and was able to descend to base camp.

Mountain accident on Laila Peak in Pakistan: Great concern for former biathlon star Laura Dahlmeier

Laura Dahlmeier (climbing in the massif Wilder Kaiser in Austria)
Laura Dahlmeier (climbing in the massif Wilder Kaiser in Austria)

Laura Dahlmeier, one of the world’s best biathletes of the last decade, has suffered a serious accident on the 6,069-meter-high Laila Peak in the Karakoram in Pakistan. “Laura Dahlmeier was climbing in alpine style with her female rope partner on 28 July when she was hit by falling rocks. The accident happened around noon local time at an altitude of around 5,700 meters,” informed the 31-year-old German mountaineer’s management team. “She is very seriously injured, at the very least.”

“Her climbing partner immediately made an emergency call, and the rescue operation was launched straight away,” it said. Due to the “remoteness of the area,” a rescue helicopter did not reach the scene of the accident until Tuesday morning.

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Waiting for a good weather window on K2

K2, the second highest mountain on earth (in 2004)
K2, the second highest mountain on earth (in 2004)

The weather in the Karakoram is not making things easy for commercial expedition teams this summer season. First, extremely dry weather caused an increased risk of rockfall, and now snowfall is slowing the teams down. The teams have to be patient in their base camps at the foot of K2 (8,611 m) and Broad Peak (8,051 m).

No summit successes have been reported from either of the two eight-thousanders this summer. A brief window of good weather may open up over the weekend, making summit attempts possible.

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