“Sometimes an ascent can change your life. I think this one did,” writes Benjamin Vedrines on Instagram.
The first ascent of the 7,468-meter-high Jannu East is “undoubtedly the greatest achievement of my mountaineering career,” said the 33-year-old Frenchman after his coup in eastern Nepal, which he accomplished together with his 27-year-old compatriot Nicolas Jean.
“Climbing such a challenging, long and difficult face in alpine style, on a summit that had never been climbed before, had a profound effect on me. It was a dream that Nicolas and I achieved together.” When they reached the highest point, tears flowed, said Benjamin.
To the summit in four days
According to Jean, it took them four days to climb the 2,300-meter North Face and then via the East Ridge to the summit. “A childhood dream come true,” wrote Nicolas.
The North Face of Jannu East was considered by top mountaineers worldwide to be one of the greatest unsolved challenges in the Himalayas. More than a dozen expedition teams had tried and failed over the past 30 years.
To acclimatize, the two Frenchmen had first climbed the 6,808-meter Anidesh Chuli—also in alpine style, i.e., without bottled oxygen, without Sherpa support, without fixed ropes, and without fixed high camps. With their coup on Jannu East, Benjamin Vedrines and Nicolas Jean have gone one better—a truly impressive feat of alpinism. Congratulations!
Update 22 October: I still owe you the route to Jannu East. Benjamin Védrines and Nicolas Jean named the route they climbed “Le sommet des pieux” (The Summit of the Spikes).
