Expeditions Archive - Adventure Mountain

21. November 202524. November 2025

Lukas Waldner after the first ascent of Kimshung: “Cooperation is stronger than competition”

Lukas Waldner, Francois Cazzanelli, Giuseppe Vidoni, and Benjamin Zörer (from right to left) at the summit of Kimshung

It was one of the many exciting alpinistic highlights of this fall season in the Himalayas. The two Austrians Lukas Waldner (24) and Benjam i n Zörer (24) and the Italians Francois Cazzanelli (35) and Giuseppe Vidoni (31) succeeded in making the first ascent of Kimshung in Nepal in alpine style.

The 6,781-meter-high mountain, also known as Tsangbu Ri, is located in Langtang National Park, about 75 kilometers north of the capital Kathmandu as the crow flies.

On 20 October, the four mountaineers climbed from their advanced camp at 5,450 meters on the Kimshung Glacier to the summit in just ten hours and descended again on the same day. They named their route (1,300 meters, 60°, AI4, M5) “Destiny”: “for the many stories that converged beneath this mountain – including the meeting of the four climbers who return home not only with a proud ascent, but above all, with a great new friendship,” as the quartet wrote on Instagram.

Two rope teams joined forces

The mountaineers from Austria and Italy had only met at the foot of the mountain and decided to climb together. Cazzanelli had already attempted Kimshung twice without success. In 2015, his team had been stopped by the devastating earthquake in Nepal, which killed almost 9,000 people. In 2016, Francois had to abandon his attempt on Kimshung after being hit by a rock at an altitude of almost 6,000 meters.

After returning from Nepal, Tyrolean mountaineer Lukas Waldner answered my questions about the now successful expedition.

Lukas, how do you rank the first ascent of Kimshung in your personal career?

14. November 202514. November 2025

Alpinistic highlight by James Price and George Ponsonby in the Karakoram: “Each pitch a question mark”

James Price (left) and George Ponsonby (right) on the summit of Aikache Chhok — James Price (l.) and George Ponsonby (r.) on the summit of Aikache Chhok

The members of the “Young Alpinist Group” from Great Britain and Ireland are actually only supposed to gain initial experience in the world’s great mountains. However, two of them have now achieved a real mountaineering coup in northern Pakistan.

At the end of October, Briton James Price and Irishman George Ponsonby opened a difficult 3,000-meter route in alpine style on the 6,673-meter-high Aikache Chhok via the previously unclimbed Northwest Ridge and then descended via the also virgin Southwest Face.

23. October 202531. October 2025

Russian team opens new route on eight-thousander Manaslu

Manaslu (l.) and Pinnacle East (r.) in spring 2007 — Manaslu (left – in 2007)

Classic alpinism is alive and well! For me, this is evident in the fact that I can hardly keep up with reporting on all the extraordinary climbs this fall season in Nepal.

Like this one: According to Anna Piunova from the Russian mountaineering portal mountain.ru, Andrey Vasilyev, Sergey Kondrashkin, Natalia Belyankina, Kirill Eyserman, and Vitaly Shipilov reached the summit of the 8,163-meter-high Manaslu in western Nepal yesterday, Wednesday, at around 1 p.m. local time.

The Russian team opened a “new alpine-style route on the immense, uncharted Southwest Face,” Anna wrote on Facebook. Andrey sent her a short message from the highest point: “(We) Made the summit, just got back to the tent. It was brutal. The wind up there was insane.”

22. October 202523. October 2025

Berg, Barmasse, and Bielecki – New route on the nearly-7000er Numbur in Nepal

Hervé Barmasse, Felix Berg, and Adam Bieleki (from right to left) at the summit of Numbur

Once again, there has been a great achievement of true alpinism in the Himalayas in Nepal: by “the three Bs.”

Felix Berg from Germany, Hervé Barmasse from Italy, and Adam Bielecki from Poland opened a new route through the approximately 1,000-meter-high South Face of the rarely climbed 6,958-meter-high Numbur in the Rolwaling Valley, not far from Mount Everest – and they did it alpine style: without bottled oxygen, without fixed ropes, without fixed high camps, and without Sherpa support.

“For me personally, it was nice to be able to do some alpine climbing again after recently being busy leading and guiding (commercial) tours,” says Felix Berg, managing director of expedition operatur SummitClimb. “I have to say, it’s one of my highlight tours in Nepal.”

19. October 202522. October 2025

Vedrines and Jean succeed in first ascent of Jannu East

Benjamin Vedrines (l.) and Nicolas Jean (r.)

“Sometimes an ascent can change your life. I think this one did,” writes Benjamin Vedrines on Instagram.

The first ascent of the 7,468-meter-high Jannu East is “undoubtedly the greatest achievement of my mountaineering career,” said the 33-year-old Frenchman after his coup in eastern Nepal, which he accomplished together with his 27-year-old compatriot Nicolas Jean.

“Climbing such a challenging, long and difficult face in alpine style, on a summit that had never been climbed before, had a profound effect on me. It was a dream that Nicolas and I achieved together.” When they reached the highest point, tears flowed, said Benjamin.

14. October 202514. October 2025

Afsaneh Hesamifard is the first Iranian woman on all 14 eight-thousanders

Afsaneh Hesamifard at the summit of Cho Oyu

I must admit that I have almost given up trying to keep track of who has climbed how many eight-thousanders, when, and in what style.

There are now so many commercial expeditions that it is – at least for me – hardly possible to keep track of them all and verify their success stories, which are mostly published on social media. The periods in which paying clients of commercial operators “tick off” the 14 eight-thousanders are also getting shorter and shorter. Therefore, I make no claim to completeness.

Today, Chhang Dawa Sherpa, board member of the Nepalese operator Seven Summit Treks, announced via Instagram the summit success of a five-member team on the 8,188-meter-high Cho Oyu in Tibet. Afsaneh Hesamifard was also part of the team, completing her collection of the 14 eight-thousanders (with bottled oxygen) – the first woman from Iran to do so.

It took her three and a half years to achieve the feat. Cho Oyu was Afsaneh’s third eight-thousander this year, after Kangchenjunga in spring and Dhaulagiri in fall.

1. October 20252. October 2025

First ascent of the 6000er Adinesh Chuli – Summit successes on Cho Oyu

Benjamin Vedrines (l.) and Nicolas Jean on the summit of Anidesh Chuli

French climbers Benjamin Vedrines and Nicolas Jean have filled in a blank spot on the map of high mountains. The strong duo climbed the 6,808-meter-high Anidesh Chuli in eastern Nepal, not far from the eight-thousander Kangchenjunga, in one day – in alpine style, i.e. without bottled oxygen, without fixed high camps, without fixed ropes, and without Sherpa support.

26. September 202526. September 2025

Carlos Soria scales Manaslu at the age of 86 – Tyler Andrews abandons his next Everest speed attempt

This mountain Methuselah is simply incredible. Carlos Soria reached the summit of the 8,163-meter-high Manaslu in western Nepal today – at the age of 86, no less.

This means that the Spaniard is now listed in the record books as the oldest person ever to stand on an eight-thousander. He replaces Japanese climber Yuichiro Miura, who climbed Mount Everest in 2013 at the age of 80 – for the third time in his life.

25. September 202511. November 2025

Andrzej Bargiel successfully climbs Everest and skis down – without oxygen mask

Andrzej Bargiel raises his arm in greeting back at Everest Base Camp — Andrzej Bargiel back at Everest Base Camp

All good things come in threes, people say. On his third attempt, Andrzej Bargiel succeeded in scaling Mount Everest without bottled oxygen and skiing from the summit back down to base camp. “It’s one of the most important milestones in my sports career. Skiing down Everest without oxygen was a dream that had been growing inside me for years,” said the Pole.

He had abandoned his first attempt in fall 2019 because a monster serac around 50 meters high and 30 meters wide was hanging over the Khumbu Icefall and threatening to break off. His second attempt ended in fall 2 0 22 at the South Col at almost 8,000 meters, where the wind was so strong that it was impossible to pitch a tent.

23. September 202523. September 2025

Tyler Andrews abandons Everest speed attempt

Mount Everest (before sunrise, seen from Gokyo Ri)

The final stop was at around 7,400 meters. After almost ten hours of climbing, Tyler Andrews decided to abandon his speed attempt on Mount Everest and descend again. “Slower pace than planned, snow has gotten worse and harder to break through solo,” it said on his website.

The 35-year-old long-distance runner from the USA wants to climb Everest without bottled oxygen – and faster than anyone has ever done before. The current record for reaching the summit without a breathing mask from the Nepalese south side is 20 hours and 24 minutes, claimed in 1998 by Nepalese mountaineer Kaji Sherpa.

22. September 202522. September 2025

Summit successes on Manaslu

Manaslu in the first dailight — Manaslu (in 2007)

The first reports of success from the 8,163-meter-high Manaslu are trickling in. On Sunday, the six-member Nepalese rope-fixing team – consisting of mountaineers Chhiring Bhote, Pasang Sherpa, Hira Bhote, Tashi Sherpa, Karma Sharki Sherpa, and Lakpa Sherpa – secured the normal route to the highest point and at the same time ensured the first summit successes of the fall season on Nepal’s eight-thousanders.

On Monday and Tuesday, the first commercial clients, accompanied by Nepalese mountaineers, also reached the summit of the eighth highest mountain on earth. Today, the Nepalese tour operator Seven Summit Treks alone reported that 17 clients and 17 Nepalese Climbing Sherpas had reached the top.

26. August 202528. August 2025

Drama on Kyrgyzstan’s highest mountain – rescue operation called off

Jengish Chokusu, also known as Pik Pobeda

Translated, the 7,439-meter-high mountain on the border between Kyrgyzstan and China means “Victory Peak” in both Kyrgyz (Jengish Chokusu) and Russian (Pik Pobeda). But these days, there are no victors on Kyrgyzstan’s highest mountain.

On 11 August, Russian climbing legend Nikolai Totmyanin – winner of the Piolet d’Or award for the first ascent of the North Face of Jannu (7,710 m) in eastern Nepal in 2004, among other achievements – died at the age of 66 in the Kyrgyz capital Bishkek, after most likely suffering from high altitude sickness while descending from the summit of the seven-thousander. But that was only the beginning of the drama.

In the days that followed, two Iranian and one Italian climbers lost their lives on Pik Pobeda. It is highly doubtful whether a female Russian climber, who has been stranded on the summit ridge at around 7,200 meters with a broken leg for two weeks, is still alive. And even if she is, it will probably be of no use to her. According to Anna Piunova from the Russian mountaineering portal mountain.ru, the rescue operation was finally called off yesterday due to bad weather with snowfall and temperatures dropping to minus 30 degrees Celsius at night.

21. August 202521. August 2025

Pakistani climbers open new route on the seven-thousander Tirich Mir in the Hindu Kush

Team led by Abdul Joshi (2nd from l.) on the summit of Tirich Mir

Long gone are the days when Pakistani mountaineers did nothing but haul equipment up mountains for foreign expeditions. They now rightly claim to be recognized and respected as mountaineers with their own sporting ambitions. This applies, for example, to Abdul Joshi.

The 40-year-old led a five-member Pakistani team that reached the summit of the 7,708-meter-high Tirich Mir on 1 August – opening “a brand new route overcoming highly technical terrain, deep crevasses, and dangerous ice-rock transitions,” as the expedition report states. The route leads through the southern flank of the mountain.

14. August 202514. August 2025

K2: “Rocks whizzing in all directions”

The 8,611-meter-high K2 in the Karakoram (in 2004)

“(I am) Grateful that I’m alive and ok,” Turkish mountaineer Gülnur Tumbat wrote on Instagram today. The professor of marketing, born in 1975, lives and works in San Francisco.

On Monday, she reached – with bottled oxygen – the summit of K2, the second-highest mountain on earth, as one of around 40 mountaineers from commercial expedition teams. Gülnur was the first Turkish woman to scale the 8,611-meter-high mountain in the Karakoram in Pakistan.

At that point, she probably had no idea how dangerous the final phase of her descent would be: from Camp 1 at around 6,000 meters down to the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at around 5,300 meters. As reported, a Chinese climber died in a rockfall during this passage on Tuesday. Gülnur reports that a rescuer who tried to recover the Chinese woman’s body was also hit.

13. August 202513. August 2025

Chinese female climber dies in rockfall on K2

The 8,611-meter-high K2 in the Karakoram (in summer 2004)

On Monday, expedition operator Imagine Nepal proudly announced that its entire team of 15 members had reached the summit of K2, the second-highest mountain on earth. Now, a death has cast a shadow over the success.

According to consistent reports from Pakistan, a Chinese female climber from the team was hit by falling rocks yesterday, Tuesday, and died. The accident occurred between Camp 1 (at around 6,000 meters) and the Advanced Base Camp (5,300 m), it said.

On Monday, around 40 climbers from several teams had stood on the summit of K2 at 8,611 meters.